Polymaker PC-ABS 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm - 1kg Spool White, High Strength & Heat Resistant Polycarbonate Blend Filament for Tough Prints - Ideal for Functional Prototypes, Automotive Parts & Engineering Applications

I really like this filament. It makes some very solid prints, but it does tend to clog the nozzle more than others and if you use ironing it sticks to the nozzle surface which leads to clogging. I also noticed that the supports are harder to remove from the prints. Lots of cleanup required.Polymaker always has great quality filament, this one is no exception. Pricey but worth itThis is the one boys, the dream filament, the one and only, the end all, BE ALL, PRINT ALLL!!!!! The PC filament that you can get away with printing in just about any configuration with little to no major upgrading needed. HAHHAHAHHA PLA??? WEAKKKK!!! AND MELTY!!! ABS??? Who has a compression chamber that can be super heated to 40000 degrees while balancing a torch on your head?? Just to print a unwarped box? PSHHHH!!! Our savior arivesssss!! TOUGH PC or even regular PC or if you want to go hulk status, FLAME RETARDANT TOUGH PC!!! With such ease of print, it's almost unbelievable how EXTREMELY-high grade the characteristics are! Some of the highest impact resistance, heat resistance, rigidity and shear strength you can find in a printable filament out there make this EASILY, my MAIN printing preference. Especially for INDUSTRIAL/PROFESSIONAL grade work where consistency matters and is what seperates "the boys from the men".This is a composite PC so you give up some strength and heat resistance for better printability. Polymaker really nailed the perfect balance on this one! You don't need brim, draft, buildtak bed, heated chamber or even a full enclosure to get perfect print. I have no issue printing this on my cheap Ender 3 with smooth glass bed and a makeshift cardboard covering.Here is how to I print PC Max on a my machine.1. Calibrated temperature, estep and extrusion percentage for this filament first.2. In Cura, set the first layer height and width to 150% of the normal value. If you are printing 0.2 layer height and on 0.4 nozzle, the first layer is 0.3 high and 0.6 width in setting. On a smooth glass bed, you want over extrude on the first layer as much as you can, really squeeze the material against the bed and itself.3. Level your bed. Since my cheap Ender 3 doesn't have auto bed leveling. I use a filler gauge manually level the bed. My value for PC is 0.8mm. Just for reference, I use 1.3mm for PETG. If you don't do #2 and #3 correctly, you may experience bed adhesion problem or warping.4. Set fan to off. Without heated chamber, you rely on the heatbed to maintain temperature around the print to slow the cooling. Part cooling fan can disturb the hot air coming from bed and result in uneven cooling. Some will say fan off deteriorate print quality. This is not true if you dried the filament and properly calibrated the temperature. For black color PCMax, I use 260c / 105c glass bed when room temperature is 25c. The actual bed temperature is probably much lower than 105c since it is glass bed. On parts with long overhang, I use 15% fan.5. Print slow, 40mm/s is what I use for 260c on my machine. You may need to increase nozzle temperature to compensate higher print speed. But I found 260c offers good quality and strength.6. No need for full enclosure. I cover my machine 70%. Just enough to prevent air draft and retain some of the hot air from heat bed. You really don't need the inside to be too hot. The inside of my partial enclosure is no more than 10c hotter than outside.7. Preheat the enclosed printer. Wait 5 minutes after the printer reached the proper temperature before starting printing.8. Wait till the print bed has cooled to room temperature before removing the covering.I do a lot of work with PC and PC-blends as I push the boundaries of what can be manufactured as a functional part with a 3d printer. I've probably tried/used PC from 5 or so different manufacturers. My general comments are this:1) Polycarbonate (PC) is the strongest and heat resistant of all the materials that can be printed with consumer grade printers. For hard, strong, functional parts you won't find better. (P.S. If you have a commercial grade printer you can play with other even higher performance polymers like Ultem, PPSU, PEEK, etc.)2) Of the PC products out there this one is far-and-away the best. In general PC is a difficult material to work with primarily due to its desire for very high temperatures and its constant desire to warp. Polymaker really has this stuff dialed in, in that it is much easier to work with, while still retaining all of the strength (possibly more) of pure PC and about 90% of the heat tolerance of pure PC.Printing tips:PC loves heat. Polymaker recommends 230-270*C which is actually a hint that they have done something with this blend since more normal PC wants to be printed around 300*C. I print PC-Max at 270*C and get great layer adhesion, surface finish, even at print speeds up around 60-70 mm/s. Just like it loves a high nozzle temp it seems to want the bed at about 90-100*C, and more importantly for sufficiently complex geometries or large parts it likes a heater build chamber. I have a controlled chamber that I can get into the mid 60*C range and it works very well. I print directly on a PEI build surface with nothing more than a few mm brim around the part and don't really have any issues with it not sticking to the build surface, however PC is known to warping and not sticking to the surface so if you just can't get it to stick try build tak or an ABS slurry to keep it bonded to the surface.Be careful when removing supports and such from PC after printing. Its a VERY hard material and little edges will cut you pretty easily.The only negatives I have are really that while it does have a great HDT compared to other materials it doesn't *quite* have the heat resistance of pure PC (I tested a few samples and suspect the HDT is around 115*C at <.5Mpa). Additionally Polymaker's supply chain seems to be a bit spotty, the stuff will be in stock for a month or so then be back out of stock for a month or two.. which can be an issue if you are relying on it for functional, sale-able parts.In conclusion, PC-Max is the best PC out there. Kudos to Polymaker keep up the good work!hard to print, looks strong, but almost not sticking to bad and like wrap like hell compare to the eSun brand. i just wanted try my luck with PC-FR compare to the PA-CF.Facile à imprimer, ne wrap pas, et est d'une résistance impec, je vais enfin pouvoir faire des pièces mécaniques :)Sur la photo, j'ai essayé de casser la pièce avec deux pinces, et il a fallut que j'y aille fort ! (en torsion je n'y suis pas arrivé)L'axe est mal imprimé, pour les petites surfaces, il faut ajouter un temps de refroidissement, sinon ça dégouline comme on peut le voirMes réglages :bed: pei texturé - colle baton (fournit par prusa) - 100degbuse : 260 degfan : offvitesse : 50mm/spremière couche : 0.1deuxième couche : 0.2remplissage : 20% rectiligneperimètres : 3couches solides : 4bordure : 5mm (surement non nescessaire)enceinte close mais non chaufféeUpdate: avec un temps d'impression min par couches de 20s et sans bordures, résultat nickel (cf nouvelle photo)Excellent filament !ブラックを購入しました。Polyboxに入れてPTFEチューブで繋いでPrusa i3 MK3Sで印刷しています。キャビネットは有りません。純正のPEIシートにケープ(3Dエクストラキープ無香料)をスプレーすると、底面も綺麗で反りも無く印刷出来ます。また、各レイヤーの印刷開始の場所をランダムにする事をお勧めします。エクストルーダー温度 270℃ヒートベッド温度 105℃印刷スピード 50mm/秒ブリッジ印刷スピード 15mm/秒ファン offリトラクション 2mm第1レイヤーの高さ 50%第1レイヤーの射出幅 120%第1レイヤーのスピード 40%インフィル 20%射出量 95%スライサーはSimplify3Dを使っているので、サポートも簡単に綺麗に剥がれます。糸引きも無く良好です。今まで3D-fuel pro pla , prusament petgを使っていましたが、強度と耐熱温度と印刷安定性を考えると、polymax pcがダントツです。ブラックを購入。265℃ノズルを購入して試してみました。（2022年3月現在欠品中のようですが）プリンターに付属のノズルは使えないそうです。カーボンファイバープラットフォームにケープスーパーハードを吹き付けて使用しています。スライサーは製品付属のFlashXPrint正直難易度はかなり高めで，サポートはライン型でパラメータはデフォルト，スライスはエキスパートモードでパラメータを調整する必要がありました。積層ピッチ 0.27mm（もっと薄くても良いとは思いますが）ノズル温度 260℃プラットフォーム温度 100℃印刷速度，樹脂押し出し中は40mm/s，押し出していない時は50mm/sラフト マージンは10mm，モデルとのスペースは0.05mm冷却ファン 起動しない（必須っぽいです）壁 有効軽くて剛性が高い印象です。糸引きもほとんどありません。少し色ムラが出てる様に思いますが，気になる人がいるかも，というレベルです。価格と扱いの難しさを考慮して星をひとつ減らしましたが，3Dプリンターというのは最適条件を探るのも楽しみのひとつと捉えれば満足のいくものだと思います。