AMOLEN Silk Gold PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, High Precision +/-0.03mm, 1kg/2.2lb Spool - Perfect for Cosplay Props, Jewelry Making, and Home Decor 3D Printing Projects

Prints best for me on a 0.6mm nozzle at 205c, at between 40 to 80mm/s (averaged at about 45mm/s).As other folks have said, this and all wood filaments produce stringing. The best that you can do is get your temperature and retraction settings dialed in well.You’ll want to print this filament on the cooler side, as hotter tends to cause heat creep and jams quite a bit more than normal PLA. I usually print PLA at 215c, but as mentioned previously, print Amolen’s wood PLAs at 205c.While I have had luck using a 0.4mm nozzle, I have had a few prints fail without much of an indication as to why. Each time resulted in a jam. However, I haven’t had any jams when printing this filament on a 0.6mm nozzle.Also thought that I’d mention that I have had fairly good luck with this filament performing well despite sitting outside of a closed space with desiccant. I am currently printing using a spool that has been sitting on a desk for nearly a year, and it is printing the same as when it was new.Note that in my experience, there is some slight color variance between batches. I’ve bought the same type of wood filament from Amolen a few times, each instance many months after the last. Each time there’s been a very small color difference, but hey, it’s wood. Can’t expect every tree (or, I’m sure, the dye that is added) to be the same.All in all, best wood filaments that I’ve used from any vendor.Ill start off with what my printer is, its a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with 200C temp and 60C hotbed settings at 50mms. Ill start off with the Pro'sPros:It looks niceIts very flexible, and bendy, doesnt seem brittle at all and will tend to bend and not snap.Mild stringing even at high humidity.Excellent vase mode quality with excellent layer to layer adhesion (even on failed prints the layers stick to themselves very well).Now for the Cons:Dont print the articulated crystal dragon, ANY of them, or anything even LIKE it, EVER. If its a detailed print in place object, brim or no brim, adhesion layer, supports wont help. Just dont and ill explain why.One of the biggest issues ive had is when it needs to retract, now this could be mitigated if you dry it, but you can only do that so many times. What this filament wants to do is puff up, and it will want to do that inside the extruder which is not too much a problem if its constantly extruding. (which is why vase mode works perfectly).This filament prints large prints pretty well and really loves builds that have constant extrusion. It hates anything that requires a lot of retractions and replacements of filament. The deer head that is shown as the example is also funny enough a good example of what you should be printing with it.Ill put some final thoughts and keep in my I only had two filaments and this is one of them so far and this is my first printer.Bed Adhesion 3.5/5 doesnt like the first layer sometimes.Layer to Layer Adhesion 5/5 (it sticks to itself very well)water absorption 4/5 (like a sponge)Flexibility 5/5 (almost acts like flexible filament if its thin enough)Its finnicky, hard to dial in and sometimes does amazing prints and sometimes hates you.While I like the way the first prints turned out, I'm a bit bothered that none of my research told me this stuff was so hydroscopic. By the second week of being opened I started getting a different color when printing and the material was more brittle. Overall, I recommend but try to print this spool out within a week or so.Mehr aus "weil ich es kann" und Halloween, welches vor der Türe steht, habe ich mir das AMOLEN Filament besorgt um meinen recht neuen Ender 5 weiter zu testen.Ich war erst etwas kritisch, da man öfters hört, dass die "Spezialfilamente" etwas komplizierter zu drucken sein, zudem der doch deutlich höhere Preis im Gegensatz zu "Standart PLA".Nach einiger Suche bin ich beim AMOLEN "Grün" gelandet und habe dies bestellt.Beim Filamentwechsel hat es recht lange gedauert bis das verbliebene Schwarz aus der Düse komplett raus war. Aber bei einem praktisch transparentem Filament fallen kleinste Farbverunreinigungen natürlich sofort auf. Ebenfalls viel mir auf, dass in der HotEnd erhitzungsphase das AMOLEN Filament extrem Spinnenfäden "Stringing" gezogen hat.Aber auch hier kann das Filament nichts dafür, wenn ich vor erreichen der Arbeitstemperaturen rumspielen.Drucker: Ender 5Marlin 1.1.9 FWNozzle: 0.4Nozzle-Temp: 215Bed-Temp: 75 / 70Speed: 40mm/sMit diesen Einstellungen gelangen mir die 3 Testobjekte ohne Einschränkungen.Die Leuchtkraft im Dunkeln ist wirklich überraschend gut! Wenn das Objekt mit (recht hellen) Licht "geladen" ist, leuchtet das Gedruckte Objekt recht lange und recht hell nach. Überraschen gut und intensiv.Einzig im hellen sehen die Objekte etwas "unsauber" aus. Trotz konstanter Filamentdichte neigen die Objekte "Fleckig" auszusehen. Hierfür gebe ich aber keinen Punktabzug, da es "Glow in the Dark" Filamrnt ist, und das soll nun mal im Dunkeln gut aussehen, was es definitiv tut. Zumal Transparent im Tageslicht eh etwas komisch ausschaut.Ich würde/werde es wieder kaufen wenn mein Kilo verbraucht ist, und ich Nachtleuchtendes Filament benötige.Für diese Rezession habe ich keine Aufwandsentschädigung oder Testmaterial zur Verfügung gestellt bekommen.Wenn diese Rezension hilfreich war, würde ich mich über ein "war hilfreich" freuenFirst, before anything else, pay attention to the low bed temperature. This stuff hates a bed temperature of more that 50. If you find that it's not sticking to the bed, lower your bed temperature to a max of 50C.So, the good:When it prints well it looks really goodWhen you finally dial in the settings (for me it was 220C hotend and 50C bed) you get some consistency in printsAnd the bad:- It really, really hates printing a large first layer.- Unless you get the temperature of the bed and nozzle just right it will fail to print. I spent about a day finding that point- The orange/red colour change does not happen anywhere near enough. I've printed 2 vases with it and they're basically just one colour. One was printed in vase mode and was 30cm tall, so had plenty of time to switch colours, the other was about 17cm tall and was not in vase mode, so I'd expect much better colour change than I got.- It's just plain hard to work with. I had 3 failed prints with a recent piece and I changed to a cheap Ender filament and it printed perfectly first time.As much as I like the colour, I'm not buying any more.+looks like actual marble!+no disgusting smells whilst printing+seems to print well using same temperature settings as my other pla filaments (I use 220 nozzle, 70 heated bed)I use the AnyCubic I3 mega 3d printer. Really happy with this marble filament. You can see that you get some great results.I made a gryphon statue and I made a warhammer objective marker. I have had comments from people saying that I did a really great paint job to make it look like marble. They have always been surprised when I said it's the marble plastic used, not paint.Is it costly? Yes, of course it is. Being able to print marble statues though is worth the cost, it looks and feels good. Also, if you are 3d printing then you probably already have accepted that it is an expensive hobby!I have bought the bronze and the wood filaments too and hoping that they will also give a great result.I had a lot of fun with amolen's heat-sensitive colour-changing filament, so when i saw the multicolour glow-in-the-dark i had to give it a try. First print was a 15cm unicorn lamp. i just put a piece of uv-led strip inside and connected it to a usb cable for power. First image is the model in light, second is plugged in and lit up, third is unplugged, glowing in the dark. Regular leds will work and probably look good, but ultra-violet leds give the best glow effect once it's switched off.I just printed using my regular pla settings 200c hotend and 60c heatbed; adhesion is excellent both to the bed and between layers. The material in light is slightly translucent white, which gives the model a really nice pearly gloss finish.First impressions when this arrived was good. It was vacuum sealed in a normal filament box with a small set of printing guidelines which is always welcomed.I have used Glow filament before from a different brand so I was able to compare this to see how it held up. It was just as brittle as the other brand but that is down to the make up of glow in the dark filament, this didn't cause an issue when feeding into the printer or when printing.I tested the glow on the reel and it was surprising easy to get a glow from it compared to the other brand I had used, although it was blue which may have a factor?I took a step back to my childhood and printed a moon and stars that would glow in the dark. I remember getting these from a magazine and sticking them to my ceiling.For comparison I printed in this filament and also in the other brand's blue filament. Both held up extremely well, adhesion to my freshly cleaned bed was great and it was easy to remove after cooling down.I tested the glow on these and as you can see I was very happily surprised that they came out so well! Definitely brighter than the other branded blue.Since I had both colours printed I decided to create a scene with them. (@mck.3d on Instagram)Printed using an Ender 3 Pro no upgrades, 200 degree hotend & 60 degree bed.All in all I am very happy with this filament. I had never come accross this brand but it will definitely be on my list of reputable suppliers!