YXPOLYER Carbon Fiber ABS Filament 1.75mm - High Strength Engineering 3D Printer Filament, 1kg Spool (Black) for Automotive Parts, Drone Frames & Industrial Prototypes

It is very easy to print at 240C nozzle and 120C PEI bed with good adhesion and no warping. However, result is very brittle compared to pure polycarbonate. For example, a simple 3-layer raft printed with this filament cannot be flexed and easily cracks and breaks (which really sucks as a raft), while a pure PC one can be bent to a 180-degree fold without breaking.[Change from 3 stars to 5 stars]I printed a bit more with this and start to like it. In sum, it might contain PC (I did not test this) but it is more like a different material with very different trade-offs. If the expectation is not pure PC, then this is actually a quite nice filament choice.Compared to pure PC:- It is much, much easier to print. I get very good prints at 230C nozzle and 110C bed with an open enclosure. In fact it prints better with the parts fan running at 20%. This is more like PETG than PC. No raft is needed (if you do print one, it will be hard to remove due to its brittleness).- It is quite tougher (harder to deform) but also quite brittle (easier to break) compared to pure PC. In particular, the impact strength is lower and thin walls crack easier. I can break a 2mm thick small square of this by hand. For pure PC, I'd use a pair of pliers.- It is more transparent while pure PC is more matte.These are just compared to what is expected of pure PC. On its own, the filament is quite nice. Stronger and more temperature resistant than PETG (for example, this holds fine as a fan shroud at ~300C where a PETG fan shroud melted). It is easier to print than PETG due to less artifacts: PETG has blobs etc while this only has some very fuzzy hair stringing.I use this in the AMS of my Bambu Lab carbon X1 with generic ABS settings. Works very well. The interface layer come off ASA and ABS prints with minimal effort. May help to dry before use.Update: The sample that I tested was very small (just a tiny piece of unprinted filament). Materials behave differently at different sizes, so it could be that a larger part would self-extinguish. Think, for example, how it's easy to light a small twig but difficult to light an entire log. I'm going to give it the benefit of the doubt and give it three stars. Still, it's not very promising to see that it will burn at all.This is the second supposedly flame-retardant / self-extinguishing filament I have tested. I tested a small sample, and it burns with black smoke and does not self-extinguish.Boy...I had a completely different experience with this stuff than the other person on here.Dried the roll, running with speeds of around 35-50mm/s at 240C with my bed at 115 and in an enclosure.The results? Warps for days. Tried a raft, that helped the warping, but it was impossible to separate. Any kind of part cooling will cause almost instantaneous shrinkage, and bridging was...just...not gonna happen.Plus, it has a real tendency of sticking to my nozzle, getting overcooked, and depositing somewhere on the print in an unsightly blob.If I could get it to print properly, this stuff would be great. Layer adhesion is tops, the models Ive printed seem very rugged. But it's hard to get around the fact that I can't get thus stuff to come out at anything approaching an acceptable outcome.I've tried other nylons and PC'S with a fair bit of success...this one I just can't seem to figure out. I'm certainly no expert, but I was hoping for a much easier printing filament than...well, this.high print quality and reliable OD on the filament.I wouldn’t spend money on this one. It’s very weak not strong at allEasy to print using ender 3 v2. Settings were 105 bed 240 nozzle. Used a PETG profile in cura and just changed the bed and nozzle temps. I did use a brim to stop minor corner lifting. It printed perfect with a brim and no enclosure. Run the nozzle temp high so the layers bond good and no cooling fan or maybe 50%. Will buy again prints easy and super strong.I have mixed feelings about this filament, it seems to print nice, great 1st layer, great adhesion but then I start getting uneven surface layer lines. I normally use eSun PLA+ and have not have the same problem. Might just need a little more tuning. I am using on a Creality Ender 3 S1 and a CR-10 mini. I have found 210C seems to be the sweet spot for temperature and using .8mm @45mm/s for direct drive and 6mm @45mm/s on the bowden.Printed several things on the build plate at once and no extra strunging even on the suports a couple of dags but that was my settings I look forward to trying more colours