Premium 3D Printer Filament Bundle - 1.75mm Silk Shiny PLA Filament in Gold, Silver, Red, Copper & Bronze (4kg Total, 1kg x 4 Spools) for Smooth 3D Printing - Perfect for Cosplay Props, Home Decor, DIY Crafts & Artistic Creations

If your lucky and your setup is dialed inI found this to be a finnicky filament on my older (seasoned), but performant, Prusa i3 Mk2 machine. I spent almost half a 1kg spool dialing it in and figuring out where exactly the source of the problem was (and was responsible for a hothead rebuild and a burnt out extruder motor in the process... but it was the original motor... so ~7 years of printing off an on... I am not gonna blame the filament itself, but the unloading attempts using standard settings for PLA and feed tension after many many jams requiring cold pulls, when the unload option failed, finally burnt out during the unload attempt of the jam.)What I have found is I get jams based on the number of extractions a model has regardless of temp (I've tested 205-230c) Articulated models tend to have a lot of pieces, and thus a lot of extractions. Every extraction adds a little foaming melt behind it. Only long straight runs clear it. This plug that forms slows down until it jams. Occasionally you might see under extrusion.Start small, print big. Unload after EVERY print, success or fail. Check to see if you have a "plug" forming. Anything more than a 2mm, plug is pretty suss in my book.My print settings fixes:Set extraction length to 0.1mm or ZERO (but the latter has stringing problems), for others (see reddit) replacing the standard heat break fixed their problem (the gap between the ptfe tube in the heat break. Also this is an seasoned extruder. I have removed and replaces the PTFE tube for damage (there was none)Several people (reddit) reported slowing down retraction speed helped (20mm/s was their suggestion, and a higher than recommended temp 230 (I like the look/strength I get using 230c on my on the i3 mk2), I tried temps from 205-230, this didn't change the jamming conditions, nor did speed, print, retractions or otherwise. Another set of people replaced their standard heat break with another (not factory spec heat break) if you get an 2-2.2mm plug every time... There is something to that. I saw that posted by a few users. Extruder clicking and under-extrusion being hints something may be amiss.Also I have set a color change after every 8 hours and just insert the same filament back in after removing any plug that has been building, the purge cleanup is annoying cleanup if your seam is visible. To unload and purge the growing "nub" is key to my longer prints. Sometimes I get under extrusion too, but I am not convinced it wasn't my feeding system adding too much resistance overcoming the lowered tension of the extruder feed gear. Too much tension on the silk does seem to deform it (not sure if this contributes to the perf and feeding problems, but I lighten it up a bit for the TTYT3D silk.)WHEN IT PRINTS... ITS PRETTY GREAT. It stays a nice pretty shiny through a large range of temp. So if it works great. but if it doesn't you'll probably need to dial in your settings.